I highly recommend purchasing a Torque wrench for all your do-it-yourself automotive projects. You can purchase these at any Harbor Freight tool store or Home Depot hardware store. They come in 1/4″, 3/8″, and 1’2″ drive. You may need to purchase multiple torque wrenches depending on the torque settings you are trying to achieve.

Below you will find a list of common torque specs for the 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO. I will add more items as questions and requests arise. If you need a torque specification not listed, please send me a message and I will find the proper specification using the service manual.

2004-2006 Pontiac GTO: ENGINE COOLING

2004-2006 Pontiac GTO: DISC BRAKES

2004-2006 Pontiac GTO: DRIVELINE

2004-2006 Pontiac GTO: ELECTRICAL

2004-2006 Pontiac GTO: ENGINE

2004-2006 Pontiac GTO: EXHAUST

2004-2006 Pontiac GTO: FRONT SUSPENSION

2004-2006 Pontiac GTO: REAR SUSPENSION

2004-2006 Pontiac GTO: FRAME

2004-2006 Pontiac GTO: POWER STEERING

2004-2006 Pontiac GTO: WHEEL LUG NUTS

For more valuable information be sure to visit the “Do-It-Yourself” (DIY) category found here.

The post Torque Specs first appeared on Mark Quitter Racing.

Need the code for your factory 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO Blaupunkt radio? Hopefully, I have the answer!

The factory radio/stereo requires a code to unlock all of the features and operate the radio. Many owners have had the factory radio cd player/changer break on them, causing cd discs to no longer play or even become permanently stuck inside the radio. Purchasing a used radio to replace the broken one is the easiest fix. There are many available online through websites such as eBay and CraigsList. These radios can easily be replaced using removal tools. Unfortunately for a used radio from another 5th Generation GTO to work in your vehicle, you will need the code to unlock the radio and use its features. Luckily there is a website to find and locate the code for the factory radio using the serial numbers.

Follow these steps to replace your factory 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO radio with a used radio from another vehicle:

1. Remove your factory radio using the removal tools. Tools can be purchased here: https://gtog8ta.com/04-06-gto/04-06-gto-radio-removal-key-tool/
   
    
2. DO NOT INSTALL THE NEW RADIO REPLACEMENT YET! On the new radio, be sure to write down the serial numbers of the radio. You will find the numbers on the stickers on the back of or on top of the radio housing. The serial number will start with “BP 2258 X XXXXXX”, the “x’s” being a series of numbers. Should be 12 numbers.
   Now the fun part! There are two resources to get the code for your Blaupunkt factory GTO radio using the serial numbers you retrieved as described above. My first choice is here: https://1337vending.com/radiocode/ This website works for American vehicles and should spit the code out and work for you just fine. Enter your serial number and receive the 4-digit code for your Blaupunkt radio. My second choice if the above link does not work is here: https://ukbookshelf.co.uk/gto This is guaranteed to work with money refunded if unsuccessful. The price is affordable and will save you hours of headaches. Be sure to write down your radio 4-digit code, and proceed to the final step.
3. Install the new replacement radio. Gently push the radio into place and you will feel and hear the radio snap into place. Turn the radio on and enter the 4-digit code using the numbered 1-6 buttons under the LCD screen. Enjoy!

The post 2004-2006 GTO Factory Radio Code first appeared on Mark Quitter Racing.

In Part 2 I will discuss a wheel and tire fitment guide for 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO’s including wheel and tire set up for daily driving, drag racing, staggering, and lowered vehicles.

Even though this guide’s main focus is on the 5th generation Pontiac GTO, this guide can be a great reference for any vehicle. The information below is universal and is used by every wheel and tire company around the globe.

LET’S GET STARTED
Tires and wheels are an often talked about subject. Most Pontiac GTO owners, and most car owners for that fact, want to know which tires and wheels they should put on their vehicle. Depending on what you are looking to accomplish, those questions will vary.

Car enthusiasts will often look for wider tires, lower-profile tires, tires that fit oversized wheels for the “large” rim look, and more. Maybe you just want a better-performing tire for all weather conditions and/or less road noise or a tire that really sticks to the pavement to handle higher horsepower vehicles. Whatever your needs are, I am going to do my best to try to answer all of these questions.

For the guide below, I have compiled the best information I could find across the web using various sources to bring you the best possible information on the subject to one page. If you have any further questions or comments, or would like to add more information to this subject, please leave a comment below or use the “Contact” form found here.

To get started, let’s look at what tires and wheels come stock from the factory for the 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO.

2004 Pontiac GTO Factory Wheels & Tires:

2005-2006 Pontiac GTO Factory Wheels & Tires:

Now the big question is, what do all those numbers mean?

WHEEL SIZE
The wheel size is the diameter of the wheel (rim) measured in inches across the wheel. Measuring in a straight line from one edge of the wheel to directly across the wheel to the other edge. This measurement is for the wheel only. You do not include the tire, only measure the wheel (rim). This measurement is always done using the Imperial measurement of inches. See the diagram below:

The bigger the diameter, the bigger the wheel. Easy right?

WHEEL WIDTH
The width of the wheel is measured across from bead seat to bead seat. Accurate wheel width measurement is done with the wheel only, no tire mounted. Measurement does not include the outer lip of the wheel. Measure the inside of the wheel lip where the tire will seal to the rim on the inside of the wheel outer lip. This measurement is usually done in Imperial measurement of inches. A few wheel companies may use the metric system of millimeters, which can easily be converted to inches and vice versa. Use the conversion tables below to convert inches to millimeters or millimeters to inches. See the diagram below to view how to measure wheel width.

The wider the wheel width, the wider a tire you can put on the wheel. Piece of cake right? Wrong! Keep reading.

BOLT PATTERN
The 5th generation Pontiac GTO’s were built in Australia which uses the metric system for units of measurement. The first number is the number of wheel studs used, the second number is the diameter of an imaginary circle formed by the centers of the wheel lugs. The number will look like this: 5×120. American vehicles or vehicles using the Imperial measurement system will use inches, looking like this: 5×4.75. To get the first number, simply count how many wheel studs are used to hold the tire on. Getting the second number on a 5 bolt lug pattern is a little more complicated. You are measuring from the back of one wheel stud to the center of the furthest wheel stud. Convert inches to millimeters using the conversion widget above in the wheel width section. Use the diagram below to see the correct way to measure bolt pattern:

The 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO uses A 5x120mm bolt pattern. There are many wheel companies that make this bolt pattern. Only use wheels with the correct bolt pattern for your vehicle. Only use the 5x120mm bolt pattern on your 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO, unless a different or after-market wheel hub was installed which uses a different bolt pattern for the application.

OFFSET (BACKSPACING)
Now for the extremely tricky part of this guide. Offset is the measurement used to determine where the wheel will sit when mounted. Offset is sometimes also referred to as “backspacing”. Wheel offset and backspacing measure the same thing, just in a slightly different way. What I mean by where the wheel will sit when mounted, is the location of the wheel under the wheel well. Different offsets can tuck the wheel further under the vehicle and wheel well, or make the wheel and tire stick further out past the body and wheel well. If the offset is wrong and the wheel sits too far in, you risk the wheel and tire rubbing on the suspension parts. Hence the problem with using too wide of wheels. The wheel will actually rub or rest against the suspension. If the offset puts the wheel too far out from under the wheel well, you risk rubbing the tire on the body when the suspension is compressed. Again, a problem with putting too wide a wheel on the vehicle, the body of the car will rub on the tire. This is also a problem for car owners who lower the vehicle. Car owners looking to put much wider wheels on their vehicles run into the problem of going too wide without the proper offset, and the tire ends up rubbing on either the suspension or the body of the car. Changing your suspension to adjustable coil-overs, or by adding “drag bags” could give your tires the clearance it needs, but that’s a completely different subject that I will cover in Part 2 of this guide. Watch the video below on how to determine offset and backspacing:

Below is a chart to convert offset to backspacing. On the 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO for example, you will see an 8″ (inch) wide wheel with a +48mm (millimeter) offset will be just under 6 1/2″ (inches) of backspacing:

So now that we know what offset and backspacing are, things should be starting to make sense.

TIRE SIZE
Finally, time for the fun stuff, tires! Tires come in all sorts of styles and sizes. Choosing a tire depends on what you want to use it for. Do you need an all-season tire that can be used in all kinds of weather conditions, or are you looking for a summer tire that really sticks to the road? Maybe you need a lower profile tire because you want to run oversized wheels. There are also the tires racing enthusiasts choose, drag radials, and slicks.

Whatever your needs are, I’m going to do my best to try to explain what you should be looking for. Very first thing you need to know is what size wheel do you have. The 5th Generation Pontiac GTO comes with either 17″ (inch) or 18″ (inch) wheels from the factory. Now we need to know how to read the different tire sizes.

On the side of any street tire, you will find a set of numbers like this: 245/45R17. You will notice the numbers are separated by a “/” and also by a letter such as “R”. The first number is the width of the tire. The first number (tire width) is measured in millimeters, sidewall to sidewall. The bigger the number, the wider the tire. The second number is the profile or sidewall height of the tire. This number is a percentage of the width of the tire. In the example below, the tire’s sidewall height is 75% of the width of the tire. The width of the tire in the example below is 185mm so the math formula for the sidewall height would be 185 x 0.75 = 138.75mm (or 5.46″ inches). Again, the bigger this number is, the taller the tire will be. The third number after the letter “R” is the wheel size in inches. See the diagram below:

Wheels are only capable of holding a tire wide enough to safely create a seal between the tire and wheel bead so the tire can hold air safely as well as stay securely on the wheel. So if you are thinking of putting some super wide tires on that factory 8″ (inch) wide wheel, think again.

Next is the profile of the tire, the second number. Your car has only so much tire clearance to fit the wheels and tires inside the wheel well. Too tall a tire and you will have your tires rubbing against the wheel wells as well as the body of the vehicle, especially the front wheel when you turn, and the back wheels when you hit a bump in the road and the suspension compresses. Suspension travel and wheel travel must be taken into consideration to give your wheels enough breathing room.

WHAT DO THE LETTERS ON THE TIRE MEAN
You may have noticed in my above example of tire size 245/45R17, there is a letter separating the second and third tire size measurements. The “R” stand for Radial Tire. The letter “R” is pretty much an industry standard now since all street tires are radial tires. The only time you may see something different is possibly if another letter comes before the “R”, such as 255/40ZR18. The letter “Z” is added to show the tire is a “Z” rated tire which means the tire is capable of speeds up to 149 miles per hour without tire failure. This is mostly done for show since all tires have a load and speed rating after the tire size. This brings us to our next lesson, the speed rating of tires.

The speed rating of tires is extremely important, especially if you plan on doing any kind of racing where you will exceed 100 miles per hour. The load index and speed rating of the tire can be found after the tire sizing. Using the diagram below locate the load index and speed rating:

Load Index is an assigned number that corresponds to the maximum weight that a tire can support when properly inflated. The higher the tire’s load index number, the greater its load-carrying capacity. I do not recommend choosing a load index tire below the recommended factory tire. Keep in mind, load index includes having heavy items in the trunk, passengers, and a full tank of gas. Below you will find the load index rating chart::

Speed Rating is a rating used to test the tire’s maximum speed without failure. In other words, it’s the fastest speed a tire can handle before it does not perform as designed. The speed rating tells you the maximum speed capability of the tire when properly inflated. The higher the speed rating, the better the grip and stopping power, but the lower the tread life. Most high-speed-rated tires are made for summer driving conditions only, not winter or snow. You can always increase the speed rating of the tires on your vehicle for improved performance, but can never decrease it without reducing the vehicle’s top speed to that of the lower speed rating selected. Below you will find the speed rating chart:

The age of the tire can be determined by reading the D.O.T. number on the side of the tire. The last four (4) numbers of the code will tell us what week/month the tires were made as well as the year. The first two (2) numbers are the week of the year the tires were made. The last two (2) numbers will tell us the year the tire was made. See the diagram below:

TIRE TREAD
The tread of a tire is the pattern molded into the tire to help disperse water and debris to gain traction to the road. While driving, water and debris are pushed to the canals of the tire tread and literally pushed out from under the tire, allowing the tire to safely make contact with the road giving the tire more traction. Hydroplaning can occur when your tires lose traction to the road and slides on a wet surface. When your car begins to hydroplane, the tires are no longer making contact with the road and your vehicle is literally driving on water, snow, ice, or whatever other wet surfaces your tires have made contact with. Tire tread can help prevent “hydroplaning” on wet surfaces.

You may notice tires have many different tread patterns carved into the tire. Yes, there are differences in the tire tread. Not all tires are designed for the same weather conditions. All season tires are designed as the name says, all weather conditions, but other tires may be designed strictly for rain, snow, or dry weather conditions. There are many different tread patterns available, and choosing a tire with the proper use is extremely important. Keep reading to see the descriptions and explanations of different tire tread patterns.

Symmetrical Tread – A “symmetrical tread” pattern is the most common. It uses continuous ribs or independent tread blocks across the entire tread face, which often create a wavy design. The pattern on each side of the center is the same. These tires can be rotated from front to back or side to side and can be installed onto the wheel with either side facing inside or outside. Symmetrical tread tires will give the least amount of road noise and have the longest tread life. This tread pattern is mostly used on all-season and snow tires.

Asymmetrical Tread – “Asymmetrical tread” patterns combine the features of other tread designs for equally strong dry and wet performance. On an asymmetrical tread, you will find larger tread blocks on the outside to create a bigger contact patch for cornering grip. This also helps reduce tread squirm for better stability and breaks up heat build-up. The outside also features large lateral grooves designed to disperse water out the side of the tire. The inside features smaller, independent tread blocks and smaller grooves to increase contact area and improve grip. On an asymmetrical tread tire, the sidewall will have ‘inside’ and ‘outside’ markings so you know which way they need to be mounted. This tread pattern is used on all-weather tires and performance tires.

Directional Tread – Directional tires are designed with the tread pattern angled to point in one direction. The tread design is typically V-shaped and is more resistant to hydroplaning. The tread blocks are molded diagonally to push away water from the contact patch more effectively. Directional tires cannot be rotated from one side of the vehicle to the other side, they can only be rotated front to back – which can often lead to more road noise as they wear. On the sidewall, there is an arrow pointing out the tire rotation direction. These tires must be mounted going in this direction. You can not rotate these tires from side to side. You can rotate the tires from to back, only if the front and back tires are exactly the same sizes. If you are running two different tire sizes on the front and back wheels, the tires can not be rotated. This tread pattern is used on performance tires. Directional tires are by far my favorite and the tires I highly recommend for sports cars.

Tread Wear
Tires don’t last forever unfortunately and there is a way to check your tires for tread wear. As the tread on tires wears down, traction to the road will become less and less. No tread, no traction. No traction, you risk sliding and hydroplaning, or even worse, an accident. What you are checking for is tread depth in inches. The rule of thumb is this:

Use the penny test to check tread life on your tires:

Insert a penny into your tire’s tread groove with Lincoln’s head upside down and facing you. If you can see all of Lincoln’s head, your tread depth is less than 2/32″ of an inch and it is time to replace your tires.

Yes, there’s a catch to how long your tires will last. Most higher-speed rated tires are made for summer use only, meaning warm and dry driving surfaces only. High-performance tires will grip the road better, corner better, and improve overall handling, but usually do not handle well in rain or snow. The higher the performance of the tire, the softer the compound of the tire, and they will wear out much faster. The softer the compound, the stickier the tire will be to warm dry surfaces. Drag radials and slicks for instance are very soft compound tires. They are designed for warm, dry conditions only. The drawback is, that these tires wear very quickly because of the soft sticky compound they are made of. On the other hand, an all-season radial tire is made of a much harder compound and will last much longer.

Choose a tire based on your driving conditions. All-season radial tires are the most popular and most sold tire on the market. All-season radial tires can be driven in both wet and dry conditions. Summer tires can only be used on dry surfaces. If you only drive your vehicle in summer or warm dry conditions, a high-performance tire may be a much better tire for you. Never drive a vehicle with summer tires in snow or icy conditions. Never drive with drag radials or slicks in the rain.

TIRE PRESSURE
One of the most overlooked aspects of tires is tire air pressure. Properly inflated tires will give you the best traction to the road, the best fuel economy, and overall make your vehicle safer to drive. Improperly inflated tires will also make your tires wear out faster. Over-inflated tires will create less tire in contact with the road which will create less traction as well as uneven tire wear. The center of the tire will be making contact while the outer portions of the tire (both inside and outside) will not be making contact with the road. Under-inflated tires will make much more of the tire contact with the pavement, but the negative result is more drag and lowers fuel economy. The tire will also lose its shape and form and wear the tire out much faster. Under-inflated tires will also cause a rougher ride and not handle and corner around turns as well as a properly inflated tire.

Tire pressure is measured by “psi”, pound per square inch. A tire pressure gauge is used to check the air pressure inside the tire. There are many different styles of tire pressure gauges on the market, and to be honest, they all do the same thing.

There are 3 (three) places you can look to find out what the proper air pressure for your tires should be. You can either look inside the driver’s side door of your vehicle for the tire information sticker, look in your vehicle’s owner’s manual, or look on the sidewall of the tire itself for the recommended tire pressure. Most wheel and tire shops will use the factory psi of the vehicle’s recommended tire pressure found on the tire information sticker inside the driver’s side front door of your vehicle. The sticker should either be in the door jam sill or on the door itself. See the image below:

If for some reason this sticker is not on your vehicle, refer to your car’s owner’s manual for proper tire pressure. If you don’t have your vehicle’s owner manual, you can just look at the side of the tire itself for the tire pressure information. Most sidewalls of a tire will show the MAX psi for the tire. This means the maximum amount the tire will hold. You do not want to fill your tires up to that amount, go below the max psi. Proper psi on most passenger cars is anywhere between 30-35 psi. Some tires will require more, such as the image example above, but for the most part, 32 psi is a fairly safe amount for tires. Your tire sidewall should look something like this:

Just for the sake of being completely thorough with this guide, you insert tire air pressure through the tire valve stem. See the image below:

Some tire shops will offer to fill your tires with Nitrogen rather than air. Why would you do this you ask? Nitrogen is used in tires for racing. Nitrogen is less likely to migrate through tire rubber than is oxygen, which means that your tire pressures will remain more stable over the long term. Racers figured out pretty quickly that tires filled with nitrogen rather than air also exhibit less pressure change with temperature swings. That means more consistent inflation pressures during a race as the tires heat up. And when you’re tweaking a race car’s handling with half-psi changes, that’s important. Fortunately in the real world, Nitrogen is not needed. Regular air fills the tires up just fine, and if you are planning on going 200 miles per hour around corners on the streets, please stay out of my neighborhood. Just use air in those tires. All the nitrogen does is prevents any water from getting inside your tires. Compressed air does have moisture in it, a very small amount of moisture if it is a good air compressor. Not to mention air from air compressors is 78% nitrogen. If you feel there is too much moisture in your tires, press on the air valve, release the air until you feel no more moisture coming out, and fill it back up with air from a quality air compressor.

SUMMARY
So have I left anything out? With all the above information you should know everything there is to know about tires and wheels. How to identify your wheel size, how to read what size tires you have, and the importance of choosing the right wheel and tire combination for your car.

But is that all you may ask? The answer is NO, there is more. Each tire manufacturer may have a different circumference for their wheels, even though the tires may be the exact same size. This means some tires may sit slightly higher or lower under the wheel well, depending on the brand of tire you are using. The difference could be as small as 1/2″ (half of an inch) and as much as 1″ (inch) but for you car owners with lowered vehicles, that 1/2 of an inch can make a world of difference. This is why it is always recommended to use matching tires on the front and rear of the vehicle.

BUT WAIT, THERE’S MORE
I can already picture the scenario for all the 2005-2006 Pontiac GTO owners who are sick of riding on those skinny 235/40/18 tires on the back of your cars. You are thinking, “Hey, I’ll just put a set of 255/40/18 on the back wheels and nothing will change!” WRONG! With wider tires, you also gain a bigger overall tire circumference.

TAKE THE TEST – For this test, we are going to use the same aspect ratio (profile) and same size wheel, but change the width of the tire. Use these numbers on the Tire Size and Conversion Calculator website link below: Type in under “Current” 235/40/18. Type in under “New” 255/40/18. The link below will open in a new window. Keep both windows open to compare your notes to mine.

Click here to input the tire numbers: Discount Tire – Tire Size and Conversion Calculator

RESULTS – You will see the new wider tire, even though it has exactly the same aspect ratio (profile) and exactly the same wheel size is quite a bit larger than our original tire. Your results should look like below:

As you can see, the sidewall on the new tire is slightly taller, you are gaining more section width (amount of tire to the pavement), but the big difference is the tire height. Our new tire is over 1/2″ (half an inch) taller than our original tire. And also gains over 2″ (inches) of overall circumference. Also, your speedometer will change a bit, but only by 1.6 miles per hour.

Knowing this new information, your vehicle will sit slightly differently. More importantly, can your suspension handle the change with now less room between the tire and wheel well?

The simple solution of course is to drop down to 35 profile tire, 255/35/18, which will give you plenty of wheel clearance and still gain a wider section width to the pavement. For the purpose of this exercise, I just wanted to prove there is a change in the tire when using the same profile measurement when moving to a wider tire.

This test is especially important for lowered vehicles. Know how much room you have to prevent wheel rub. Use the tire size calculator above to determine how much space you will lose or gain when switching to different tires.

BUT WAIT, THERE’S EVEN MORE
So now that you have all this information, you are probably wondering if I offer a fitment guide for 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO’s. What wheels to buys, which tires to buy, what is the best size tire, what is the widest tire I can use, and I’m sure a few other questions. The answer is YES! I will be releasing Part 2 for this tires and wheels section because honestly, it’s just too much information to put on one page. Stay tuned…….

The post Wheels & Tires Guide Part 1 first appeared on Mark Quitter Racing.

Should you use an oil catch can on your 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO? Absolutely! The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system used on General Motors LS engines uses the intake manifold to burn off unwanted crankcase fumes. These fumes contain oil that goes right into the intake manifold. Oil in the intake manifold means oil on the cylinder head valves, oil in the combustion chamber, and then eventually it all gets passed through the exhaust system.

Passing through the exhaust system unfortunately is not always the case of what happens. The PCV valve controls the amount of crankcase flow volume depending on the engine’s load. With large throttle openings (high engine loads), more vapor gases that can contain oil are produced. The more the PCV system flows, the more oil vapor is routed to the intake manifold.  A small amount of that ignited oil vapor can leak past the piston rings and end up in the crankcase. This leakage is often referred to as a “blow-by” or leakage past the pistons. Some of the oil mist and other products settle along in the engine and intake manifold and over time form sludge or gunk.

Why did the engine get designed this way? Simple, to reduce emissions and is an easy cure to prevent your engine from vapor locking. Without the PCV system, your engine would build up pressure caused by oil and gas fumes and would cause seals to go bad and create oil leaks. Even worse it could lock up the engine completely.

Below you will see the images of exactly how the PCV System works. The engine simply uses a rubber fuel line to push gases and vapor from the crankcase outward and directed back through the intake manifold. The hose is “U” shaped and fairly easy to find. From under the hood look on the left side of the engine just behind the throttle body. The lower part of the hose is attached to the crankcase where vapor is expelled from the engine. The upper part of the hose is where the vapors re-enter the intake manifold to be burned off as exhaust gases.

This is where an Oil Catch Can come into play. The oil catch can is a filter that catches the oil and dirt from the crankcase PCV system before it enters your intake manifold, only allowing the air to pass through as it should. Below is a video of the results of adding an oil catch can to your engine:

How It Works
The object here is to filter the vapor of oil and debris before it re-enters the intake manifold. The oil catch is installed between the crankcase PCV relief valve (vapor exit) and the inlet of the PCV System on the intake manifold. For the example, I am going to use Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can. Below you will see a diagram of a cutaway version of the oil catch can and how it filters oil and debris before they enter the intake manifold:

As you can see, oil vapor is directed to the inlet of the oil catch can and run through a filter, which catches oil and debris. The Oil and debris are then captured in the base of the can which can be removed to be emptied and cleaned when full. The remaining vapor is then directed to the exit of the oil catch can and enters the intake manifold and operates in a normal manner. The difference here is the engine is disposing of clean filtered vapor without the risk of oil and debris entering the intake manifold and the engine.

Are You Ready To Add An Oil Catch Can To Your Vehicle?
There are a few different companies that make oil catch cans for 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO. You are visiting Mark Quitter Racing, which means I’m only going to tell you to purchase the best one for our vehicles.

Elite Engineering

Elite Engineering is the best in the business when it comes to Oil Catch Cans. They offer the best filtering system to protect your engine, and their catch cans are very easy to install and maintain. Each catch can include a bottom catch can reservoir that screws onto the top of the unit, and is sealed with a built-in O-ring. Inspection and cleaning are easy by simply removing the bottom of the unit reservoir by unscrewing it by hand, without disturbing the mounting system or hoses.

The following is taken directly from the Elite Engineering 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO Oil Catch Can product page:

Where To Purchase
Elite Engineering Oil Catch Cans come in a variety of colors and each kit comes with everything you need to install it on your vehicle. Installation can be done in approximately 20 minutes using basic hand tools.

Each standard kit comes with the following:

• Catch Can assembly is beautifully anodized in a choice of available colors, complete with 3/8″ barbed inlet/outlet hose fittings.
• Custom machined mounting bracket to fit your specific vehicle and application
• All Stainless steel mounting hardware.
• 3/8″ ID fuel and oil vapor compatible hose.
• PCV adapter hardware.
• Black zinc plated hose clamps.
• Brass Hose Barb fittings are standard, upgrade to Nickel Plated or Chrome Fittings for that custom look

You can purchase an Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can for your 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO by clicking the following link:

Purchase 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can

Next, download the installation instructions below. Installation instructions are for Corvette LS2 which will be the same instructions for 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO, including both LS1 and LS2 engines.

For video install instructions help, I found this video on YouTube:

Maintenance
Maintaining and inspecting the Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can is extremely easy. The Oil Catch Can will do exactly what it says it does, catch oil. The bottom portion of the catch can is a reservoir that will need to be checked and emptied from time to time. If you do not empty the catch can it can become very full of oil, causing oil to get backed up into the intake manifold, which is exactly what we are trying to avoid. Indications of a full oil catch can will be white or blueish smoke coming from the exhaust due to oil being burned in the combustion chamber of the engine. You can see in the picture below how the Oil Catch Can have a removable reservoir:

At every oil change or before, simply screw off by hand the bottom reservoir of the catch can. If standing in front of the front bumper and looking at the catch can, you would turn in a clockwise motion to remove it. Be careful not to tip the reservoir when removing it, there will be oil in there you will want to inspect. Look in the reservoir and you should see some oil, which is good. This means the catch can is doing its job. I would expect to find anywhere from a tablespoon to a couple of shot glasses ( 3 ounces) of oil every 3000 miles depending on your driving habits. Also, look for any dirt and debris as well as check for metal shavings. Hopefully, the only thing you find is oil. Empty the reservoir and use a paper towel to clean it out. Before re-installing the catch can reservoir, make sure the rubber o-ring is still on the catch as well. Replace the reservoir onto the catch can by turning counterclockwise (standing in front of the front bumper). Hand tighten and you’re done.

The post Oil Catch Can first appeared on Mark Quitter Racing.

The recommended oil change on 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO is every 3000 miles according to the service manual maintenance schedule. Most of today’s synthetic oil claims you go as long as 5000 miles, and some even claim up to 7000 miles before you need an oil change. I personally say you should follow the guidelines set forth by the service manual and change your oil every 3000 miles.

If you see the “Service Engine Oil” message on the instrument cluster dash (image above), this is an indicator that it is time to change your oil. Hopefully, if you follow the service manual, you will change your oil before this message appears.

So What Is The Purpose Of Changing The Oil?
First, we need to know the function of the oil in an engine. Oil is a lubricant that keeps all of the moving parts of an engine from creating excess heat from friction. The pistons, crankshaft, connecting rods, camshaft, and cylinder head valves all need the benefits of oil to keep rotating freely inside the engine, without resistance and without creating excessive heat. Every part of the engine is made of some form of metal. When metal rubs against metal it causes friction, which in turn causes heat. The oil lubricates all of the moving parts which allows them to move freely within the engine, reducing friction and drastically reducing heat.

Over time the oil will begin to break down and not become as slick and lubricating as it was when it was new. This is mainly caused by the engine oil becoming dirty from the natural dirt that builds up in the engine over time. Oil changes help to reduce and remove any excess dirt that can build up in your engine from use. Sludge is also a common development in cars, and oil changes will completely remove it for a more efficient running engine. Oil changes help and contribute to the cleanliness of your engine, as well as keeping all of the moving parts of the engine lubricated and working properly.

Oil Viscosity
Engine oil viscosity refers to how easily oil pours at a specified temperature. Thin oils have lower viscosity and pour more easily at low temperatures than thicker oils that have a higher viscosity. Thin oils reduce friction in engines and help engines start quickly during cold weather.

There are two different grades of oil, straight weight and multigrade or sometimes called multi-viscosity. Straight weight oil will have a grade on the bottle such as SAE30, meaning this is just straight 30 weight oil. The “SAE” is an acronym for “Society of Automotive Engineers”. The Society of Automotive Engineers developed a scale for both engine and transmission oil grades. Multi-viscosity oils will have a grade on the bottle such as 5W-30. Oils with viscosity grades are the industry standard for automotive applications.

Viscosity is notated using the common classification “XW-XX”. The first set of numbers is followed by a “W”.  That W stands for “winter” and is a shorthand that tells you that you’re dealing with a multigrade oil that’s been tested to pump at extremely cold temperatures. The number preceding the W rates the oil’s flow or viscosity, at zero degrees Fahrenheit (-17.8° degrees Celsius). The lower the number, the less the oil thickens in cold weather. The second set of numbers indicates viscosity at 100° degrees Celsius (212° degrees Fahrenheit) and represents the oil’s resistance to thinning at high temperatures.

For instance, oil with a 5W-30 grade thickens less than oil with a 10W-30 grade in cold weather. Oil with a 5W-30 grade thins out more quickly at high temperatures as compared to oils with a 5W-40 grade. Viscosity measurement rules are the same whether you choose a normal conventional motor oil or a high-tech natural gas-derived full synthetic motor oil.

Synthetic Oil vs. Conventional Oil
Is synthetic oil better than conventional oil? Absolutely! Conventional oil does not last as long as synthetic oil and needs to be changed much more often. It breaks down much faster than synthetic oil and loses its protective qualities putting your engine at risk for mechanical failure and reducing the life of the engine. The following is taken directly from the Mobil Oil Company website:

“Overall, full synthetic oils provide better engine performance and protection than conventional and synthetic blend motor oils. Mobil 1™ advanced full synthetic motor oils are specially formulated with a tailored additive system that provides additional performance benefits above and beyond those found with conventional and synthetic blend oils by”: Combating sludge and deposit buildup Reducing wear Protecting against high temperatures Controlling oil breakdown Longer oil change intervals Advantages of full synthetic oil: Offering greater engine wear protection Keeping your engine cleaner Flowing better in low temperatures Protecting better at high temperatures Protecting critical turbocharger parts

Use The Correct Recommended Oil For Your Car
I can’t stress this enough, do not use any other oil in your car besides what is recommended by the auto manufacturer. Using the wrong weight or viscosity oil can lead you right down the path of mechanical problems, or even worse, premature engine failure. Using too heavy an oil can put stress on the moving engine parts, and using too light of oil can cause engine parts not to be lubricated enough causing heat and friction which will cause eventual engine failure. Signs that you have used the wrong oil can include a burning smell, oil leaks, engine noises, and low fuel efficiency.

 

CHANGING YOUR OIL: 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO

What You Will Need:

PARTS	AMOUNT NEEDED
5W-30 Full Synthetic Engine Oil – Recommend Mobil 1	7 Quarts. Fill oil to the full line on the oil dipstick, then add 1/2 to no more than 1 quart more. It will take 6 1/2 (6.5) quarts in total to fill, which will be slightly over the full mark on the dipstick as recommended.
Oil Filter – Recommend Mobil 1 # M1-107A	1

1. Lifting the vehicle. Jack up the car on the left side (driver’s side) and place it on a jack stand. Use the “Jacking Points” section for reference. Leave just enough room to crawl under the front of the car to reach the oil pan and oil filter. Ramps can be used, but I have found on the ramps not as much oil is drained out of the oil pan. This is also why I say to jack up on the left side and use the least amount of height needed to work under the car. This allows as much of the old oil to be drained out as possible at this angle.
   
2. Remove the skid plate/Oil Pan Protection Shield. Using a 13mm socket, remove the 4 bolts holding on the skid plate to the underbody located directly under the engine. This will allow access to the oil pan drain plug and oil filter.
   
3. Drain the oil. With the skid plate removed, place an oil drain pan under the oil pan. Use a 13mm socket to remove the oil drain plug located on the bottom of the oil pan. Allow as much oil to drain as possible. Be patient. There is no rush here. This does not have to be a 10-minute oil change, we want to do this the right way.
4. Remove the oil filter. Using an oil filter wrench, remove the oil filter. Once the oil filter is loose it simply screws off of the oil filter stem turning counterclockwise. Some oil will pour out of the filter, so place the oil drain pan under the filter area as well.
   
5. Prepare to install the new oil filter. Clean the oil filter stem on the engine as well as the surface of the oil filter contacts. Get any excess oil and dirt off of the oil filter area before installing the new filter.
   
6. Install the new oil filter. Before screwing the new oil filter on, using your finger place some fresh oil around the rubber gasket of the new oil filter. Simply dip your finger in the oil and spread the oil around the rubber oil filter gasket. This prevents the gasket from tearing or ripping when you tighten it down and creates a seal to prevent oil leaks from the filter. Screw the filter on clockwise until hand tight. Then using your oil filter wrench, turn an additional 1/4 (quarter) of a turn. The oil filter does not need to go on super tight. Hand-tight and a quarter turn more is all it will need. The service manual calls for the oil filter to be tightened to 22 ft-lbs (30 N.m). Most GTO owners will say this is excessive, but if you would like to go by the service manual, you are more than welcome to.
7. Re-install the oil pan drain plug. Tighten to 18 ft-lbs (25 N.m) torque specs. If you do not have a torque wrench, then hand tight with a ratchet (tighten until slight resistance) and a quarter turn more.
8. Add the new oil. Pop the hood and start adding oil. Add 5 quarts, no need to check the oil dipstick, all 5 quarts will be needed. Once all 5 quarts are added, check the oil dipstick. We are looking for the oil level to be right at the full line. Also, look under the car to make sure you have no oil leaks. Again, be patient. No need to rush. Once you see there are no oil leaks, begin adding another quart of oil. I recommend adding half a quart and then checking the oil dipstick again. Keep doing this until you have reached the full line on the oil dipstick. Your end result should be 6 1/2 quarts of oil added in total.
9. Re-install the oil pan protective skid plate. Install the 4 bolts that hold the protective skid plate onto the undercarriage. Tighten to 22 ft-lbs (30 N.m)
10. Remove the jack stand and jack and lower the vehicle.
11. Start the car and let run for a few minutes. This allows oil to run through the oil filter so we can re-check the oil level. Turn the car off.
12. Re-check the oil level on the oil dipstick. If the oil level is not at the full line, add a little more oil until the oil is right on the full line of the oil dipstick. Once this is done, add 1/2 to a full quart more. I usually do a half quart, but some will say to add 1 more quart. In my opinion, half a quart more is plenty. Check the oil dipstick again and it should indicate you are right over the full line. The oil change is complete.
13. Oil Catch Can – If you have an oil catch can installed on your engine, now would be the time to empty the oil catch can reservoir. Be sure to inspect the oil in the catch reservoir for dirt and debris. Remove the oil catch can reservoir and empty and clean. Re-install the catch can reservoir.
    

    Note: If you do not have an Oil Catch Can installed on your vehicle, I highly recommend you visit the Oil Catch Can section of this website and purchase one immediately. Read the entire section to understand the importance of this engine add-on.

14. Reset the “service engine oil” message. If the “Service Engine Oil” message has appeared on your dashboard instrument cluster as an indicator to change your oil, you will need to reset this message. You can reset this message by following the instructions found on this website in the section: 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO Service Engine Oil Reset
    

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The post Oil Change first appeared on Mark Quitter Racing.

The parking brake is often overlooked by most owners using an automatic transmission, but for manual transmission owners, the parking brake is a must. A properly functioning parking brake gives a piece of mind that your car is not going to roll forward or backward when the car is in Park or in the Neutral position of the transmission.

When you pull on the parking brake lever, it puts tension on a cable that runs to both of the rear wheels. The cable is attached to the parking brake pads or “shoes”, which expand inside the rear brake rotors, preventing the brake rotors from spinning, hence preventing the wheel from rolling.

Over time the parking brake will loosen and it will take more pulls and clicks on the parking brake lever to engage the parking brake. This is usually caused by the brake pad shoes wearing down a bit and the parking brake cables stretching out from nothing more than time and use, or a combination of both. This is all perfectly normal and does not necessarily mean you need brake pad shoes or need new parking brake cables.

A properly adjusted parking brake will engage between 4 and 6 clicks on the parking brake handle. There are 2 adjustments on the parking brake system. The first one is on the parking brake shoes assembly themselves, which you can find behind the brake rotors of both left and right rear wheels. Behind the brake rotors, you will find the parking brake shoes and they work very similarly to the old style drum brakes. On the bottom of the parking brake pads shoes, there is a star wheel separating the left and right portion of the brake pad/shoes assembly. This wheel can be adjusted to tighten or loosen the amount of tension put on the inside of the brake rotors (#4 on the figure below). This adjustment is and should be done when you replace your brake pads and/or rotors. You can find more information about this by downloading the service manual found here or go directly to the parking brake section of the service manual found here.

The second way to adjust the parking brake is more than likely going to fix the problem and adjust the parking brake lever to engage properly. This is assuming your brakes are in good condition and not in need of service. As stated above, the parking brake handle should engage the parking brake in 4 to 6 clicks. What this means is at no more than 6 clicks of pulling up on the parking brake lever, the parking brake should be engaged and the vehicle should be locked in place and not roll forward or backward in the Neutral position. Below you will find the inspection and adjusting procedure to set the parking brake lever to engage the parking brakes.

Parking Brake Adjustment

Inspection Procedure
1. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL.
2. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
3. Support the rear suspension with jacks in order to maintain the correct angle of the lower control arms.

4. Apply the parking brake (1).

Count the number of clicks or ratchet notches.

Specification

• The minimum number of clicks is 4.
• The maximum number of clicks is 6.

5. Attempt to rotate the rear wheels. Verify the rear wheels do not rotate.
6. Release the parking brake.
7. Attempt to rotate the rear wheels. Verify the rear wheels rotate freely.
8. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Verify the red BRAKE warning indicator is OFF.
9. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
10. If the park brake lever travel is correct, lower the vehicle.

If the park brake lever travel is not correct, complete the Adjustment Procedure.

Adjustment Procedure

1. Pull the park brake lever boot to the side.
2. Loosen the parking brake cable adjustment nut (1).

3. Apply the park brake 5 clicks.
4. Use a dial-type torque wrench and a deep socket in order to tighten the adjustment nut:
Tighten Tighten the adjustment nut to 2.0 N·m (17.7 lb in).
5. Attempt to rotate the rear wheels. Verify the rear wheels do not rotate.
6. If the park brake lever travel is correct, lower the vehicle.
If the park brake lever travel is not correct, continue with this procedure.
7. Release the parking brake.
8. Remove the rear tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
9. If necessary, loosen the parking brake cable adjustment nut in order to ensure slack in the park brake cables.
10. If necessary, reposition and support the rear caliper and the rear pads. Refer to Rear Disc Brake Pads Replacement in Disc Brakes.
11. If necessary, clean and secure the rear brake rotor to the hub. Refer to the cleaning and securing procedure in Brake Rotor Assembled Lateral Runout Measurement in Disc Brakes.
12. Remove the 2 park brake adjuster hole covers from the rotor.
13. Insert a screwdriver, or an equivalent lever, through an access hole in the rotor.
14. Tighten the adjuster in order to expand the park brake shoe until the rotor locks.
15. Loosen the adjuster approximately 4 notches in order to adjust the shoe to the proper distance away from the drum portion of the rotor.
16. Attempt to rotate the rear rotors. Verify the rear rotors rotate freely.
17. Verify the park brake adjustment is correct. Complete the Inspection Procedure.
18. Verify the parking brake cable adjustment nut is properly adjusted.
19. Install the 2 adjuster hole covers to the rotor.
20. If you repositioned the caliper and the pads, install the caliper and the pads. Refer to Rear Disc Brake Pads Replacement in Disc Brakes.
21. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
22. Remove the jacks.
23. Lower the vehicle.

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Spark Plug Wire Construction
Spark plug wires are made of a conducting material to carry electricity from the ignition coils to the spark plugs. This works much like any electrical wire found in today’s homes. The difference is the volts are much higher and must be carried safely so as not to interrupt other electronic components on the vehicle. Almost all plug wires are constructed using similar components: a central core, conductive suppression layer insulator, fiberglass braid, and an outer silicone jacket.

The two major factors of choosing a spark plug wire are the wire’s resistance and the wires’ ability to prevent Electromagnetic interference (EMI) or radio frequency interference (RFI).

• Resistance: Rated in ohms-per-foot, resistance is the ignition wire’s tendency to resist the flow of the electric current. Wires with higher ohms-per-foot ratings will allow less current to flow from the spark source to the plugs. This can affect engine performance and fuel economy in a negative way.
• Electro-magnetic interference (EMI) or radio frequency interference (RFI): As the higher charges of today’s electronic ignitions are moved through the wires, an electromagnetic field is created around the wire. This field can interfere with sensitive electronic devices and create noise that can be heard through the radio, and even affect sensors. This is referred to as EMI or RFI and can wreak havoc, especially in sensitive radio communications.

Companies will use different conducting materials for the central core of their products. All of them of course claim theirs is better than the competition. The central core material is the main part of the spark plug wire that will deliver the volts to the spark plug. Below are the most popular style conducting materials used:

• Carbon Core: This is the common OEM-style core used on most modern vehicles. It offers excellent RFI suppression, but also creates more resistance than other styles. In addition, carbon core breaks down more quickly than other materials, so they require relatively frequent replacement.
• Solid Core: Solid core spark plug wires typically utilize stainless steel or copper, which conducts electrical current very well. For that reason, solid core wires have lower resistance than other wires to get maximum energy to the plugs. Unfortunately, solid core offers very little EMI/RFI suppression, so they’re not suited for electronic ignition systems or vehicles with sensitive communications equipment. You will find solid core wires used on race cars and cars not utilizing a lot of electronic components. Upon further research, you will be lucky to even find solid core spark plug wires anywhere. These were mostly used on vehicles in the 1950s and 1960s and primarily for alcohol and nitro-burning cars using no electronic components. Solid Core spark plug wires are not used for any of today’s vehicles including race cars.
• Spiral Core: Spiral core spark plug wires incorporate an alloy—usually consisting of stainless steel, copper, and tin—wrapping the core to suppress EMI/RFI while maintaining low resistance. As with everything, there is a delicate balance. More wire coils around the core will reduce noise but raise the resistance of the wire. Many of the high-performance spark plug wires are spiral core. And again, companies will use different variations of the central core material used.

Stock/Factory Spark Plug Wires vs. High-Performance Spark Plug Wires
The spark plug wires from the factory (stock) will be carbon core wires. This offers the least amount of radio frequency interference and will not interrupt the vehicle’s electronic components. They deliver the proper amount of spark to the spark plug and do exactly what they are designed to do. This style of spark plug wire is prone to wear and tear and can begin arcing if the wires show age. These wires do not hold up to the engine heat well. This style of spark plug wires is intended to be replaced and will not last the life of the vehicle. These styles of wires will absolutely work without fail as long as the spark plug wires are in good condition.

The difference between the factory and high-performance spark plug wires is durability. To be honest, the factory AC Delco spark plug wires found on the Chevrolet LS engines which are used by the 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO are the nicest and most durable stock wires I have ever seen. The stock/factory spark plug wires are carbon core and offer the best protection against EMI and RFI interference. The downside is they also have the highest amount of electrical resistance. Even as nice as the factory wires are, they still do not last and can become brittle from heat. The most common problem is the factory spark plug wires will break apart right where the wire meets the spark plug wire boot (attaches to the spark plug) on the spark plug side.

High-Performance spark plug wires will be spiral core wires and are much more durable. The central core of these wires can be a variety of materials depending on which companies spark plug wire they are. The outer layer is usually much thicker than the factory wires, making them much more durable to withstand engine heat. This style of wire is also much less prone to arcing due to its thicker outer shell and durable construction. Most High-Performance spark plug wires for street applications will also have RFI and EMI suppression to prevent electrical interference with the vehicle’s electronic components.

Which spark plug wires should I use on my 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO?
This has been a debate for years. Hopefully, I can clear this up a bit from my research. Spark plug wires are designed to take the electrical current from the coils to the spark plug, that is it. There is no performance gain from using expensive spark plug wires over the factory stock spark plug wires. If you gain horsepower from changing spark plug wires, that means the spark plug wires you replaced were not working correctly and needed to be changed anyway. There is however a difference in construction and durability.

That factory or stock spark plug wires over time can become brittle and crack. The rubber insulation surrounding the wires themselves can develop small cracks in them just from time (being old) or from the heat from the engine and exhaust manifolds. These cracks can cause the spark to actually arc. Spark plug wire arcing occurs when the spark from the wire finds another way out of the wire besides the intended route of travel to the spark plug. The spark will find another closer metal object on the engine as a ground and jump to that, such as an exhaust manifold bolt. Now the spark from the coils is not completely going to the spark plug. Some spark will be going to the exhaust manifold bolt in my example, and some spark will go to the spark plug. This can cause a misfire since the spark plug will not be receiving the full jolt of spark coming from the ignition coils. Factory spark plug wires also may not be able to hold up to the heat from high-performance exhaust manifolds, called “Headers”. The factory spark plug wires could melt, and cease to deliver spark to the spark plug, also causing a misfire.

High-Performance Spark Plug Wires for the most part are more durable than factory spark plug wires. They can also offer less resistance to electricity than the stock spark plug wires while suppressing EMI and RFI interference. They are also constructed in a way that the wires can withstand heat, as well as reduce any possibility of arcing, delivering the entire jolt of electricity from the ignition coil directly to the spark plug. The factory spark plug wires are designed to do this as well. Will changing to high-performance spark plug wires improve the performance of your engine? Absolutely not. The engine is designed for the full amount of spark to be delivered, even with the factory spark plug wires.

• Stock/Factory: The AC Delco factory spark plug wires are very good. I would not use any other stock spark plug wires other than the factory replacement. They do an excellent job of delivering spark and suppressing all RFI and EMI frequencies. Be advised, if you have exhaust headers on the vehicle, use the factory metal spark plug boot heat shields on the wire. These wires may need to be replaced in as little as 20,000 miles. The drawback of these types of wires is they are carbon core which tends not to last very long. Also, the carbon core used as the central core of the spark plug wire offers the most RFI and EMI suppression of any other central core material, but it also comes with the most electrical resistance. This means the flow of the electrical current is not as strong as it could be.
• High Performance: There are many companies that make high-performance spark plug wires, that would be an excellent replacement for the stock spark plug wires. They will be more durable and withstand the engine heat much better than the factory wires. They will also deliver the most amount of spark with the least amount of resistance, while suppressing RFI and EMI frequencies, protecting all the vehicle’s electronic components. The majority of these types of spark plug wires are spiral cores. These spark plug wires can last as long as 50,000 – 100,000 miles based on their durability and ability to withstand heat.

Spending more on high-performance spark plug wires that can withstand engine and exhaust manifold heat is well worth it, especially for vehicles equipped with exhaust headers. Also switching to a high-performance spark plug wire that prevents arcing and suppresses EMI and RFI interference with the least amount of electrical resistance makes perfect sense. The 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO is loaded with electronic equipment. It is very important to use the correct spark plug wire that suppresses EMI and RFI frequencies that can damage electronic components, especially when we are dealing with 40,000 volts.

Recommended Spark Plug Wires
I have put together a list of spark plug wires that I know will work for the 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO vehicles with no fitment issues. Switching to a high-performance spark plug wire set will save you time and money in the long run. They will last longer than the factory carbon core spark plug wires and offer just as much and possibly better transfer of spark from the ignition coils to the spark plugs. The factory AC Delco factory spark plug wires are a very good choice, and will easily handle the job of delivering spark to the spark plug. But be advised the carbon core construction of the factory spark plug wires means you will have to replace them sooner than a high-performance spark plug wire set. If you need to replace your spark plug wires, which you will need to eventually, I recommend the following spark plug wire sets:

2004 PONTIAC GTO SPARK PLUG WIRE SETS

BRAND	TYPE/DESCRIPTION	PART NUMBER
AC Delco	Carbon Core AC Delco Professional Spark Plug Wire Sets are engineered with strength-enhancing fiberglass and high-temperature silicone insulators. These spark plug wires are a premium aftermarket offering that covers over 96% of domestic vehicles on the road today.	748mm
MSD	Spiral Core The MSD 8.5mm superconductor wire is the performance wire. Incredibly low resistance without electronic interference. The low resistance results in less loss of spark energy so more reaches the spark plug.	32819
NGK	Spiral Core NGK Wire Set: 7mm ultra-low resistance magnetic core, wire wound ignition cable with OEM or better specified spark plug, and distributor boots. High temp silicone jacket resists underhood temperatures up to 482 degrees F (250 degrees C).	RC-GMX090

2005-2006 PONTIAC GTO SPARK PLUG WIRE SETS

BRAND	TYPE/DESCRIPTION	PART NUMBER
AC Delco	Carbon Core AC Delco Professional Spark Plug Wire Sets are engineered with strength-enhancing fiberglass and high-temperature silicone insulators. These spark plug wires are a premium aftermarket offering that covers over 96% of domestic vehicles on the road today.	9748rr
ACCEL	Spiral Core ACCEL Extreme 9000 ceramic wires are the cure for burnt spark plug boots. These wires provide excellent energy delivery while delivering the highest level of RFI/EMI suppression. They are ideal for custom engines, boats, and RVs.	9070C
MSD	Spiral Core The MSD 8.5 mm super conductor wire is the performance wire. Incredibly low resistance without electronic interference. The low resistance results in less loss of spark energy so more reaches the spark plug.	32829

There are also many other companies that make high-performance spark plug wires. The wire sets mentioned above are the ones I know work well with no fitment issues. I have personally used these spark plug wire sets and can verify they do fit and will perform as expected.

Other Companies that sell high-performance spark plug wires:

• Taylor
• Dragon Fire
• Hinson Motorsports
• Granatelli
• F.A.S.T.

BATTLING HEAT
If heat on the spark plug wires is a concern, or your spark plug wires are prone to melting from touching the exhaust manifolds, there is a solution. Switching to ACCEL Ceramic spark plug wires is an excellent choice. The ceramic spark plug boots will never melt and can directly lay right on the exhaust manifold and never get damaged. Another choice would be to use the factory AC Delco Heat Shields on the spark plug boots themselves as pictured here:

Another choice could be to use spark plug wire sleeves. These can be used with or without metal heat shields. You can find these sleeves easily by doing an internet search. They come in colors and are extremely easy to install. Many have purchased these from eBay as well as other online retailers. The sleeves simply slide over the spark plug wire protecting it from heat, as pictured here:

The post Spark Plug Wires first appeared on Mark Quitter Racing.

If this happens it will cause havoc on the electrical system of your vehicle. What does a Body Control Module (BCM) control? The automotive central body control module (BCM) is a processor-based power distribution center that supervises and controls functions related to the car body such as lights, windows, security, door locks and access control, and various comfort controls.

Below you will find a video explaining how to correct this problem. Now personally, and just in my opinion, you do not need to go to the great lengths as explained in the video. Simply examining the wires and wrapping the wire with additional electrical tape right over the factory wrap should cushion the wires enough. I do agree with wrapping the wires further down to prevent any exposed wires from rubbing on anything they shouldn’t be. If you want to go the full route, the video does an excellent job of explaining what to do.

The post BCM Wiring Harness Repair first appeared on Mark Quitter Racing.

The below diagram is taken directly from the service manual. Number “2” is the main point of interest for jacking up and supporting your 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO on jack stands.

Below is a color display marking the jacking and lifting points. The green areas are the points of interest for jacking up and supporting your 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO on jack stands.

The Green area is the Preferred Frame Contact Lifting and Jacking Locations (Number 2 on the Service Manual diagram)

The Yellow area is the Optional Floor Jack Lifting Locations (Number 4 on the Service Manual diagram)

…And one more useful diagram explaining where to place the jack stands:

The post 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO Jacking Points first appeared on Mark Quitter Racing.

The service manual does recommend changing the spark plugs at 100,000 miles, but you may want to change them sooner. Personally, I highly suggest you change them a little sooner. It is a fairly easy job to do, and even a beginner mechanic can do this task with just a few basic tools and some patience.

How often you change your spark plugs will vary depending on driving habits, and any modifications you may have done to your vehicle. If your engine is absolutely stock with no modifications done to it including exhaust, you can go much longer without changing the spark plugs and follow the schedule of changing them at the 100,000-mile mark on the odometer using the factory spark plugs.

WHICH SPARK PLUG COMPANY TO USE
The next question of course is which spark plug should you use. There are many different companies that manufacture spark plugs. The factory spark plug is the AC Delco 12571164 Iridium spark plug.

There is one problem with this product though. THEY DO NOT MAKE THIS ANYMORE. This spark plug has long been discontinued and has changed part numbers more often than we change our oil. Now if you would like to replace them with another AC Delco Iridium spark plug, I highly suggest contacting your auto parts store and check the cross-reference numbers to be sure you are replacing the spark plug with the comparable original. AC Delco has a tendency to change their part numbers often and can become a chore to search for the proper replacement for your vehicle.

There are also many other companies that make Iridium spark plugs for your vehicle. Autolite, Denso, Bosch, Champion, and NGK, just to name a few. Always check with the companies part finder to be sure you use the correct spark plug part number for your vehicle. Your auto parts store can also help you with this.

THE POPULAR CHOICE
The most used spark plug brand for the 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO community is going to be NGK. This company is reliable, and their part numbers along with quality have been the same for many years.

Now that we know which companies spark plug to use, now we need to break down which spark plug to use. NGK has many different styles of spark plugs. V-Power, Iridium, G-Power, Laser Iridium, Laser Platinum, and Ruthenium.

Below is a table I have taken directly from the NGK Part Finder website which includes plug type, part number, and the recommended spark plug gap:

For you “more power” enthusiasts with modifications done to your vehicle to increase horsepower, you may want to run a different spark plug than the factory recommendations. The snippet below was taken directly from the NGK website:

If the above statement applies to your vehicle, you will want to use this spark plug:

COPPER vs. IRIDIUM
All spark plugs will have copper in them. The center core of all spark plugs, even iridium, is made of copper. Copper has been proven to be the best conductor of electricity and best performing. The difference will be in the center electrode core tip. V Power sparks plugs for instance use a nickel center electrode tip, while the Laser Iridium Spark Plugs use an iridium center electrode tip. All spark plugs will use a nickel ground electrode.

Copper is an excellent conductor of electricity, better than any other type of material used in spark plugs, and also transfers heat faster. Copper spark plugs run cooler and provide more power in performance driving situations. They are often installed as original equipment in turbocharged engines and engines with higher compression ratios. The nickel-alloy outer material used in the copper spark plug isn’t as hard as other metals so it wears down more quickly with the high pressure and heat created in the cylinder of the engine. Over time, this wear leads to the spark plugs fouling and not working as efficiently as they did when they were new. Due to this short lifespan, most copper spark plugs need to be changed every 20,000 miles.

Iridium is said to be six times harder and eight times stronger than platinum with a 700° F higher melting point. Iridium spark plugs have extremely fine electrodes while retaining excellent wear characteristics. Thanks to their strength, iridium spark plugs can last up to 25% longer than comparable platinum spark plugs. Iridium spark plugs feature a fine wire center electrode that is designed to conduct electrical energy better and increase firing efficiency. The main benefit of iridium spark plugs is longevity. You will not have to replace it as frequently as you do with the copper plugs. The expected life of an iridium spark plug is 50,000 to 100,000 miles before needing to be replaced. You will be pleasantly surprised at how durable and long-lasting iridium spark plugs are.

So truth be told, all spark plugs are copper. Iridium spark plugs will just last longer.

WHICH SPARK PLUG PRODUCT TYPE SHOULD I USE?
With the above information at our fingertips, it now comes down to the question of which product type spark plug should I use. Here’s the breakdown:

As you can see from reading the descriptions above of the various spark plugs, many are designed for longevity and extended use. But just because they last longer, that does not mean they are giving you the optimal performance you are looking for. I personally rather change my spark plugs more often and use brand new spark plugs more frequently than relying on older plugs that have been in the car for over 50 thousand plus miles. Also the longer those plugs sit in those aluminum cylinder heads, the harder they will be to get out. And I don’t want any spark plugs sitting in my cylinder heads for 100 thousand miles. In addition, if you are the kind of person to constantly do modifications to your car, such as changing the exhaust, adding headers, adding a cold air intake, or even more extreme of changing your intake manifold, throttle body, and cylinder heads, and even dyno tuning can be rough on the plugs because you will be changing air-fuel mixtures, you are going to be changing your spark plugs anyway (or at least you should be), so why spend the money on plugs that last 100 thousand miles when they will be long replaced before you even reach that kind of mileage. The spark plugs are easy to change, and of course, it’s rewarding knowing you can do your own work and keep your car running at its peak performance.

AND THE WINNER IS

NGK V-POWER TR5 SPARK PLUGS! If you have more than 75-100 horsepower over stock, the winner would be the NGK V-POWER TR6 SPARK PLUG!

This spark plug hands down for the money will give you the best performance. It has all the same ingredients as the higher-end expensive spark plugs, with the only real difference being the center electrode tip is made of Nickel, unlike its Iridium and Platinum counterparts. It has the firing power, it has the conductor ingredients, and is trusted by many racers and tuner shops across the Country. And personally, if the only downside is they only last 20,000 miles, I’m perfectly fine with that. I enjoy working on cars, and there is a certain satisfaction you get when you know you are constantly doing the proper upkeep to keep your vehicle performing as well as it can be. I can buy almost 6 sets of the TR5 Spark plugs for the price of one set of Iridium or Platinum spark plugs. That’s just smart shopping.

2004-2006 Pontiac GTO Spark Plug Replacement

What You Will Need:

PART	DESCRIPTION
	Set of 8 NGK TR5 Spark Plugs
	3/8″ Inch Drive Flex Head Ratchet One from Harbor Freight works great. Will be needed to angle the socket a bit for loosening and installing the spark plugs.
	5/8″ Inch Spark Plug Socket For A  3/8″ Inch Drive Ratchet Do NOT use a regular socket! Only use a spark plug socket which will hold the spark plug in the socket without sliding out. If the spark plug slides out of the socket and hits the floor you could damage the spark plug and if used could cause a misfire on your engine. Also when you drop the spark plug it could fall into the skid plate covering the oil pan and you may not be able to retrieve it without removing the skid plate. If you ever suspect you have damaged a spark plug, do not use it. Buy a new spark plug.
	3/8″ Inch Drive Extension Set You do not need to use the black impact extensions, the regular chrome ones will work. I personally like the impact extensions better. They lock in the socket and ratchet better and are much stronger. Available at Harbor Freight and are fairly inexpensive.
	3/8″ Inch Drive Universal Joint Swivel You will only need this if you do not have a flex head ratchet for removing and installing the spark plugs. You will need this for the torque wrench to properly tighten the spark plugs.
	Spark Plug Gapping Tool Can be purchased at almost any auto parts store for under $2. A necessity for properly gapping the spark plugs.
	Permatex Aluminum Anti-Seize Lubricant This will be used lightly on the threads of the spark plugs from keeping them from becoming “stuck” in the cylinder head. Over time spark plugs can become harder to remove than they should be. This caused by the constant heating and cooling of the spark plug contrasting and expanding in the cylinder head. The cylinder heads are made of aluminum and you do not want to damage them in any way. Now, this can be up for debate as some say not to use Anti-Seize on spark plugs because you may actually over-tighten the plugs. I disagree and if you do it my way, you will never have a problem.
	Permatex Dielectric Grease For use inside the spark plug wire boots to prevent the boots from sticking onto the spark plugs. Spark plug wires should snap on and off the spark plugs nice and easy with very little force.
	3/8″ Inch Drive Torque Wrench Torque wrench that is capable of properly torquing to 11 foot-pounds. This is the ICON torque wrench from Harbor Freight. Has both foot-pounds and inch-pounds readings. 132 inch-pounds is the same as 11 foot-pounds of torque. You could also use a 1/4″ drive torque wrench with a 3/8″ drive to 1/4″ drive adapter, as long as it can torque to 132 inch-pounds or 11 foot-pounds.
PATIENCE	The last thing you need is patience. Don’t be in a hurry. Do not force or muscle the spark plugs. They are very delicate and can be damaged easily if dropped or banged around. Do not over-tighten the spark plugs when installing them. Hand tighten. Make sure they screw in nice and easy. You do not want to cross-thread the spark plug opening on the cylinder heads.

STEP 1:
After purchasing your spark plugs, open each one up and check the gap of every spark plug using your spark plug gapping tool. They are pre-gapped from the factory but check them anyway. They could have been banged around during shipping changing the gap of the plug. Check every plug so you are ready to install them. If it is necessary to widen the gap, do so with a tool that only pulls back on the ground electrode without touching the center electrode or the porcelain. To close the gap on a plug, gently tap the plug, electrode first on a hard surface.

NGK doesn’t recommend adjusting the plug gap more than .008″ in either direction.  Beyond that slight adjustment, the ground electrode and center electrode won’t align properly, hindering spark plug performance and drastically reducing plug life. 

Gently pull the spark boot off of the spark plug (see picture below). If they are the original spark plug wires, be very careful, there is a possibility they might break. If they do break you will need to replace your spark plug wires. Your auto parts store can help you with this. Recommended 2004 Pontiac GTO Spark Plug Wire Set. Recommended 2005-2006 Pontiac GTO Spark Plug Wire Set. You can also visit the Spark Plug Wires section of this website for more information.

With the spark plug wire removed from the spark plug, it’s time to get out your tools. Grab your 3/8″ inch flex head ratchet, a 2″ to 4″ inch extension, and your 5/8″ inch spark plug socket. Place the socket over the spark plug and make sure it is all the way down and firmly in place over the spark plug. Begin to loosen the spark plug by turning the ratchet counterclockwise. Once the spark plug breaks loose, you can remove the ratchet from the extension and just use your hand to spin the extension and spark plug socket to pull the spark plug out. Carefully pull out the spark plug while it is still in the socket. Do not tip the socket down, point the socket upward to prevent the spark plug from sliding out of the socket and winding up on the floor or worse, trapped in the oil pan skid plate cover.

STEP 3:
Time to install the new spark plug. We have already gapped them from Step 1, so we can go ahead and install the spark plug worry-free. Place the new spark plug in your spark plug socket. Now take a very small dab of the Permatex Anti-seize and gently spread it on the threads of the spark plug. Only put it on the threads. Do not get any Anti-Seize on the electrode or tip of the spark plug. And again, you just need a little bit. Don’t go crazy. Just a light film around the threads only. See the picture below:

With the spark plug in the spark plug socket and you can leave a short extension on the socket, (do not use a ratchet at this point) gently put the spark plug in place of the spark plug hole in the cylinder head. Hand tighten the spark plug by turning the spark plug socket clockwise. The spark plug should screw in nice and easy with no resistance. You do not want to force the spark plug to screw in the hole, because you can damage the threads of the aluminum cylinder head. Keep tightening the spark plug by hand until you can not turn it anymore or the resistance becomes high when turning it. Leave the spark plug socket and extension on the spark plug.

Now the important part. You do not want to over-tighten the spark plug. It does not need to be in the cylinder head super tight, do not muscle it. The rule of thumb is hand tight and then a quarter of a turn more. But here at MarkQuitterRacing.com, we don’t use rules of thumb, we do it once, and do it the right way. Grab your 3/8″ inch drive torque wrench and set it to 11 foot-pounds or 132 inch-pounds. Attach the torque wrench to the extension on the spark plug socket. Slowly turn clockwise until you hear the click of the torque wrench and then stop tightening, you are done. This will not take a lot of pressure to achieve, so do not muscle it. If you would like to check it one more time for good measure, that would be fine. Turn clockwise until your torque wrench clicks. And that’s it, the spark plug is installed.

STEP 4:
Time to put that Dielectric Grease to use. Squeeze a small amount of Dielectric Grease into the spark plug wire boot (end of the spark plug wire that attaches to the spark plug) of the spark plug wire that was removed. You don’t need a lot, just enough to grease the inside of the spark plug wire boot. Attach the spark plug wire to your new spark plug, and you are done.

STEP 5:
Repeat all of the above steps for the remaining spark plugs. The passenger side is a bit tighter to maneuver around, so experiment with different length extensions and the use of the flex head ratchet or use the universal joint swivel to get the best angle to remove and install the spark plugs. Just remember, take your time, be patient, if it doesn’t fit don’t force it.

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