Should you use an oil catch can on your 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO? Absolutely! The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system used on General Motors LS engines uses the intake manifold to burn off unwanted crankcase fumes. These fumes contain oil that goes right into the intake manifold. Oil in the intake manifold means oil on the cylinder head valves, oil in the combustion chamber, and then eventually it all gets passed through the exhaust system.

Passing through the exhaust system unfortunately is not always the case of what happens. The PCV valve controls the amount of crankcase flow volume depending on the engine’s load. With large throttle openings (high engine loads), more vapor gases that can contain oil are produced. The more the PCV system flows, the more oil vapor is routed to the intake manifold.  A small amount of that ignited oil vapor can leak past the piston rings and end up in the crankcase. This leakage is often referred to as a “blow-by” or leakage past the pistons. Some of the oil mist and other products settle along in the engine and intake manifold and over time form sludge or gunk.

Why did the engine get designed this way? Simple, to reduce emissions and is an easy cure to prevent your engine from vapor locking. Without the PCV system, your engine would build up pressure caused by oil and gas fumes and would cause seals to go bad and create oil leaks. Even worse it could lock up the engine completely.

Below you will see the images of exactly how the PCV System works. The engine simply uses a rubber fuel line to push gases and vapor from the crankcase outward and directed back through the intake manifold. The hose is “U” shaped and fairly easy to find. From under the hood look on the left side of the engine just behind the throttle body. The lower part of the hose is attached to the crankcase where vapor is expelled from the engine. The upper part of the hose is where the vapors re-enter the intake manifold to be burned off as exhaust gases.

This is where an Oil Catch Can come into play. The oil catch can is a filter that catches the oil and dirt from the crankcase PCV system before it enters your intake manifold, only allowing the air to pass through as it should. Below is a video of the results of adding an oil catch can to your engine:

How It Works
The object here is to filter the vapor of oil and debris before it re-enters the intake manifold. The oil catch is installed between the crankcase PCV relief valve (vapor exit) and the inlet of the PCV System on the intake manifold. For the example, I am going to use Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can. Below you will see a diagram of a cutaway version of the oil catch can and how it filters oil and debris before they enter the intake manifold:

As you can see, oil vapor is directed to the inlet of the oil catch can and run through a filter, which catches oil and debris. The Oil and debris are then captured in the base of the can which can be removed to be emptied and cleaned when full. The remaining vapor is then directed to the exit of the oil catch can and enters the intake manifold and operates in a normal manner. The difference here is the engine is disposing of clean filtered vapor without the risk of oil and debris entering the intake manifold and the engine.

Are You Ready To Add An Oil Catch Can To Your Vehicle?
There are a few different companies that make oil catch cans for 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO. You are visiting Mark Quitter Racing, which means I’m only going to tell you to purchase the best one for our vehicles.

Elite Engineering

Elite Engineering is the best in the business when it comes to Oil Catch Cans. They offer the best filtering system to protect your engine, and their catch cans are very easy to install and maintain. Each catch can include a bottom catch can reservoir that screws onto the top of the unit, and is sealed with a built-in O-ring. Inspection and cleaning are easy by simply removing the bottom of the unit reservoir by unscrewing it by hand, without disturbing the mounting system or hoses.

The following is taken directly from the Elite Engineering 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO Oil Catch Can product page:

Where To Purchase
Elite Engineering Oil Catch Cans come in a variety of colors and each kit comes with everything you need to install it on your vehicle. Installation can be done in approximately 20 minutes using basic hand tools.

Each standard kit comes with the following:

• Catch Can assembly is beautifully anodized in a choice of available colors, complete with 3/8″ barbed inlet/outlet hose fittings.
• Custom machined mounting bracket to fit your specific vehicle and application
• All Stainless steel mounting hardware.
• 3/8″ ID fuel and oil vapor compatible hose.
• PCV adapter hardware.
• Black zinc plated hose clamps.
• Brass Hose Barb fittings are standard, upgrade to Nickel Plated or Chrome Fittings for that custom look

You can purchase an Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can for your 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO by clicking the following link:

Purchase 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can

Next, download the installation instructions below. Installation instructions are for Corvette LS2 which will be the same instructions for 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO, including both LS1 and LS2 engines.

For video install instructions help, I found this video on YouTube:

Maintenance
Maintaining and inspecting the Elite Engineering Oil Catch Can is extremely easy. The Oil Catch Can will do exactly what it says it does, catch oil. The bottom portion of the catch can is a reservoir that will need to be checked and emptied from time to time. If you do not empty the catch can it can become very full of oil, causing oil to get backed up into the intake manifold, which is exactly what we are trying to avoid. Indications of a full oil catch can will be white or blueish smoke coming from the exhaust due to oil being burned in the combustion chamber of the engine. You can see in the picture below how the Oil Catch Can have a removable reservoir:

At every oil change or before, simply screw off by hand the bottom reservoir of the catch can. If standing in front of the front bumper and looking at the catch can, you would turn in a clockwise motion to remove it. Be careful not to tip the reservoir when removing it, there will be oil in there you will want to inspect. Look in the reservoir and you should see some oil, which is good. This means the catch can is doing its job. I would expect to find anywhere from a tablespoon to a couple of shot glasses ( 3 ounces) of oil every 3000 miles depending on your driving habits. Also, look for any dirt and debris as well as check for metal shavings. Hopefully, the only thing you find is oil. Empty the reservoir and use a paper towel to clean it out. Before re-installing the catch can reservoir, make sure the rubber o-ring is still on the catch as well. Replace the reservoir onto the catch can by turning counterclockwise (standing in front of the front bumper). Hand tighten and you’re done.

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The recommended oil change on 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO is every 3000 miles according to the service manual maintenance schedule. Most of today’s synthetic oil claims you go as long as 5000 miles, and some even claim up to 7000 miles before you need an oil change. I personally say you should follow the guidelines set forth by the service manual and change your oil every 3000 miles.

If you see the “Service Engine Oil” message on the instrument cluster dash (image above), this is an indicator that it is time to change your oil. Hopefully, if you follow the service manual, you will change your oil before this message appears.

So What Is The Purpose Of Changing The Oil?
First, we need to know the function of the oil in an engine. Oil is a lubricant that keeps all of the moving parts of an engine from creating excess heat from friction. The pistons, crankshaft, connecting rods, camshaft, and cylinder head valves all need the benefits of oil to keep rotating freely inside the engine, without resistance and without creating excessive heat. Every part of the engine is made of some form of metal. When metal rubs against metal it causes friction, which in turn causes heat. The oil lubricates all of the moving parts which allows them to move freely within the engine, reducing friction and drastically reducing heat.

Over time the oil will begin to break down and not become as slick and lubricating as it was when it was new. This is mainly caused by the engine oil becoming dirty from the natural dirt that builds up in the engine over time. Oil changes help to reduce and remove any excess dirt that can build up in your engine from use. Sludge is also a common development in cars, and oil changes will completely remove it for a more efficient running engine. Oil changes help and contribute to the cleanliness of your engine, as well as keeping all of the moving parts of the engine lubricated and working properly.

Oil Viscosity
Engine oil viscosity refers to how easily oil pours at a specified temperature. Thin oils have lower viscosity and pour more easily at low temperatures than thicker oils that have a higher viscosity. Thin oils reduce friction in engines and help engines start quickly during cold weather.

There are two different grades of oil, straight weight and multigrade or sometimes called multi-viscosity. Straight weight oil will have a grade on the bottle such as SAE30, meaning this is just straight 30 weight oil. The “SAE” is an acronym for “Society of Automotive Engineers”. The Society of Automotive Engineers developed a scale for both engine and transmission oil grades. Multi-viscosity oils will have a grade on the bottle such as 5W-30. Oils with viscosity grades are the industry standard for automotive applications.

Viscosity is notated using the common classification “XW-XX”. The first set of numbers is followed by a “W”.  That W stands for “winter” and is a shorthand that tells you that you’re dealing with a multigrade oil that’s been tested to pump at extremely cold temperatures. The number preceding the W rates the oil’s flow or viscosity, at zero degrees Fahrenheit (-17.8° degrees Celsius). The lower the number, the less the oil thickens in cold weather. The second set of numbers indicates viscosity at 100° degrees Celsius (212° degrees Fahrenheit) and represents the oil’s resistance to thinning at high temperatures.

For instance, oil with a 5W-30 grade thickens less than oil with a 10W-30 grade in cold weather. Oil with a 5W-30 grade thins out more quickly at high temperatures as compared to oils with a 5W-40 grade. Viscosity measurement rules are the same whether you choose a normal conventional motor oil or a high-tech natural gas-derived full synthetic motor oil.

Synthetic Oil vs. Conventional Oil
Is synthetic oil better than conventional oil? Absolutely! Conventional oil does not last as long as synthetic oil and needs to be changed much more often. It breaks down much faster than synthetic oil and loses its protective qualities putting your engine at risk for mechanical failure and reducing the life of the engine. The following is taken directly from the Mobil Oil Company website:

“Overall, full synthetic oils provide better engine performance and protection than conventional and synthetic blend motor oils. Mobil 1™ advanced full synthetic motor oils are specially formulated with a tailored additive system that provides additional performance benefits above and beyond those found with conventional and synthetic blend oils by”: Combating sludge and deposit buildup Reducing wear Protecting against high temperatures Controlling oil breakdown Longer oil change intervals Advantages of full synthetic oil: Offering greater engine wear protection Keeping your engine cleaner Flowing better in low temperatures Protecting better at high temperatures Protecting critical turbocharger parts

Use The Correct Recommended Oil For Your Car
I can’t stress this enough, do not use any other oil in your car besides what is recommended by the auto manufacturer. Using the wrong weight or viscosity oil can lead you right down the path of mechanical problems, or even worse, premature engine failure. Using too heavy an oil can put stress on the moving engine parts, and using too light of oil can cause engine parts not to be lubricated enough causing heat and friction which will cause eventual engine failure. Signs that you have used the wrong oil can include a burning smell, oil leaks, engine noises, and low fuel efficiency.

 

CHANGING YOUR OIL: 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO

What You Will Need:

PARTS	AMOUNT NEEDED
5W-30 Full Synthetic Engine Oil – Recommend Mobil 1	7 Quarts. Fill oil to the full line on the oil dipstick, then add 1/2 to no more than 1 quart more. It will take 6 1/2 (6.5) quarts in total to fill, which will be slightly over the full mark on the dipstick as recommended.
Oil Filter – Recommend Mobil 1 # M1-107A	1

1. Lifting the vehicle. Jack up the car on the left side (driver’s side) and place it on a jack stand. Use the “Jacking Points” section for reference. Leave just enough room to crawl under the front of the car to reach the oil pan and oil filter. Ramps can be used, but I have found on the ramps not as much oil is drained out of the oil pan. This is also why I say to jack up on the left side and use the least amount of height needed to work under the car. This allows as much of the old oil to be drained out as possible at this angle.
   
2. Remove the skid plate/Oil Pan Protection Shield. Using a 13mm socket, remove the 4 bolts holding on the skid plate to the underbody located directly under the engine. This will allow access to the oil pan drain plug and oil filter.
   
3. Drain the oil. With the skid plate removed, place an oil drain pan under the oil pan. Use a 13mm socket to remove the oil drain plug located on the bottom of the oil pan. Allow as much oil to drain as possible. Be patient. There is no rush here. This does not have to be a 10-minute oil change, we want to do this the right way.
4. Remove the oil filter. Using an oil filter wrench, remove the oil filter. Once the oil filter is loose it simply screws off of the oil filter stem turning counterclockwise. Some oil will pour out of the filter, so place the oil drain pan under the filter area as well.
   
5. Prepare to install the new oil filter. Clean the oil filter stem on the engine as well as the surface of the oil filter contacts. Get any excess oil and dirt off of the oil filter area before installing the new filter.
   
6. Install the new oil filter. Before screwing the new oil filter on, using your finger place some fresh oil around the rubber gasket of the new oil filter. Simply dip your finger in the oil and spread the oil around the rubber oil filter gasket. This prevents the gasket from tearing or ripping when you tighten it down and creates a seal to prevent oil leaks from the filter. Screw the filter on clockwise until hand tight. Then using your oil filter wrench, turn an additional 1/4 (quarter) of a turn. The oil filter does not need to go on super tight. Hand-tight and a quarter turn more is all it will need. The service manual calls for the oil filter to be tightened to 22 ft-lbs (30 N.m). Most GTO owners will say this is excessive, but if you would like to go by the service manual, you are more than welcome to.
7. Re-install the oil pan drain plug. Tighten to 18 ft-lbs (25 N.m) torque specs. If you do not have a torque wrench, then hand tight with a ratchet (tighten until slight resistance) and a quarter turn more.
8. Add the new oil. Pop the hood and start adding oil. Add 5 quarts, no need to check the oil dipstick, all 5 quarts will be needed. Once all 5 quarts are added, check the oil dipstick. We are looking for the oil level to be right at the full line. Also, look under the car to make sure you have no oil leaks. Again, be patient. No need to rush. Once you see there are no oil leaks, begin adding another quart of oil. I recommend adding half a quart and then checking the oil dipstick again. Keep doing this until you have reached the full line on the oil dipstick. Your end result should be 6 1/2 quarts of oil added in total.
9. Re-install the oil pan protective skid plate. Install the 4 bolts that hold the protective skid plate onto the undercarriage. Tighten to 22 ft-lbs (30 N.m)
10. Remove the jack stand and jack and lower the vehicle.
11. Start the car and let run for a few minutes. This allows oil to run through the oil filter so we can re-check the oil level. Turn the car off.
12. Re-check the oil level on the oil dipstick. If the oil level is not at the full line, add a little more oil until the oil is right on the full line of the oil dipstick. Once this is done, add 1/2 to a full quart more. I usually do a half quart, but some will say to add 1 more quart. In my opinion, half a quart more is plenty. Check the oil dipstick again and it should indicate you are right over the full line. The oil change is complete.
13. Oil Catch Can – If you have an oil catch can installed on your engine, now would be the time to empty the oil catch can reservoir. Be sure to inspect the oil in the catch reservoir for dirt and debris. Remove the oil catch can reservoir and empty and clean. Re-install the catch can reservoir.
    

    Note: If you do not have an Oil Catch Can installed on your vehicle, I highly recommend you visit the Oil Catch Can section of this website and purchase one immediately. Read the entire section to understand the importance of this engine add-on.

14. Reset the “service engine oil” message. If the “Service Engine Oil” message has appeared on your dashboard instrument cluster as an indicator to change your oil, you will need to reset this message. You can reset this message by following the instructions found on this website in the section: 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO Service Engine Oil Reset
    

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